Griddle Top Recovery

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The Blackstone griddle tops are made of steel and all steel, naturally, wants to rust. In order for rust to occur you need exposure to air and water. This is why if you live in an area with high humidity you will need to be extra vigilant to protect your griddle top from the elements.

Not all rust is going to be preventable but luckily our griddles are very easy to clean and with a few pointers you should be able to prevent most corrosion.

Even in a worst-case scenario, a griddle top with heavy corrosion can be restored by just following a few simple steps.

So, here are the cleaning tools you will need.

  • A metal Scraper
  • Oil (any cooking oil will do)
  • Paper towels
  • And a Grill Stone Cleaning Block

Tools-Needed-for-Cleaning

Step 1:

First, turn your griddle on to high heat. This will loosen up any rust or debris so it will be easier to remove.

Now use a metal scraper and scrape as much corrosion off as you can. If you don’t have a metal scraper, a metal spatula should work just fine.

Do this step dry. Don’t use any water. Remember, water is one of the major causes of rust and we are going to strip any protective layer from the griddle so introducing water at this stage would be counter productive.

Once you’re done scraping as much as you can, let your griddle cool for a while then brush away all the debris on top.

Griddle_Recovery_002

Step 2:

Now use regular cooking oil and the grill stone to scrub your griddle surface. You’ll typically find the grill stones in the BBQ isle of the store but if you can’t find a grill stone try using steel wool or a medium grit, wet/dry sandpaper.

Griddle_Recovery_003

Step 3:

Now use paper towels to wipe the griddle clean. Apply more oil and wipe the griddle down again. Do this until all of the rust debris is gone. If you missed any spots just go back over them with oil and the grill stone.

Griddle_Recovery_004

Step 4:

Once your griddle top is clean it’s time to season it. Seasoning your griddle top will give it a natural protective coating to help prevent corrosion and give you a nice stick-resistant surface to cook on. There are a lot of oils you can use for your initial seasoning layer and even more arguments about which one is best. We have recommended Flax Oil in the past for your initial seasoning, but it is fairly expensive and though it does create a very nice bond it can also get brittle over time. I’ve used Olive Oil and lately have been testing the Crisbee Puck with pretty good results. In the end, the best thing for your griddle is to use it a lot. The more you cook with it, the better it will be.

Here is a list of oils you can use for your initial seasoning but if you have something else that you prefer go ahead and use it.

  • Flax Oil
  • Extra Virgin Olive Oil
  • Vegetable Oil
  • Vegetable Shortening (Crisco)
  • Canola Oil
  • Coconut Oil
  • Crisbee Puck

For this griddle top I actually used California Olive Ranch Extra Virgin Olive Oil.

See our Post on Griddle Seasoning & Care Guide for more detailed instructions on seasoning your griddle.

Apply a small amount of oil to your griddle and spread it around with a rolled-up paper towel or lint-free cloth.

Turn your griddle on to medium-high heat.

You will see the oil start to smoke and the surface of your griddle will start to discolor. This is good. This means the oil is burning off its organic compounds and bonding to the metal.

Keep your griddle on medium-high heat until the oil stops smoking and your griddle surface starts to turn matte gray. This will typically take about 30 minutes.

Turn your griddle off and let it cool.

Repeat Step 4 about 3 or 4 times until you have a fairly even matte black griddle top.

After this initial seasoning, simply cooking on your Blackstone griddle will add to the seasoning layer.

Griddle_Recovery_005

Final Step:

Once you’ve seasoned your griddle you want to store it with a protective layer of oil to create a barrier from air and moisture. Use regular cooking oil for this step and wipe down your griddle top with a thin layer in between uses. Cooking spray works really well for this. Don’t forget to wipe down all of the sides of the griddle top too. Make sure you do this every time you use your griddle. The oil acts as a barrier to air and water.

Griddle_Recovery_006

If you don’t have a cover for your griddle we highly recommend one. It protects your griddle top from rain and dust. I live right next to a large open field and before I got a cover I would have to wipe a layer of dirt off of the griddle every time I used it.

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48 thoughts on “Griddle Top Recovery

    • Venessa Pixton says:

      We have not tested this method, however, using vinegar to remove rust from metal works. The only thing we have found is that vinegar brings it back to the bare metal so you must rinse it off, dry it off well and then immediately season the exposed steel or it will quickly begin to rust again. We are going to try this during the next week. It should be fine though, let us know how it goes if you do give it a try. Here is the link to our rust removal video, if nothing else, follow the second portion of the video for the season instructions. We have had great success using these methods.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=thPE2IgnSiI

  1. Randy says:

    Just bought the 28in griddle was just wondering some where down the line we will need to change the burners where do we get new ones from

    • Venessa Pixton says:

      You can call us directly to purchase. We are preparing to put all parts onto the website for purchase very soon. I very rarely ever replace burners as they are just steel tubes. We do sell burners for $15 plus $5 for shipping. If you need to call us we are at 435-252-3030 x 1. Thanks.

    • Venessa Pixton says:

      You can call us to purchase Randy. I very rarely replace burners for customers, they last a very long time being stainless steel. 🙂 But if you ever need, call us, 435-252-3030 x 1

  2. Dawn Gilbar says:

    We’ve tried everything with the griddle top, followed the video directions twice…won’t stop rusting. Who wants to spend a ton of time cleaning before you can use it. Total disappointment and waste of money. What do we do now?

    • Venessa Pixton says:

      We do not warranty against rust. I have had my unit for 4 years and I do not pamper it. I followed the video although I used Crisco instead of Flax oil Where do you live? I have left mine out in the rain, even the unit in the video, we left it out for a couple months uncovered to see if it would rust and in the rain and snow, it did not rust at all. Many customers have let us know that they have had great success following the method in the video. We also have a carry bag that you can remove and store the griddle top to protect it more. Also very important is to make sure you if you have the griddle top covered, put something under the cover to tent it, I use an old volley ball to lift the cover just enough to provide a pocket of air so that condensation will not occur. I hope this helps.

      https://www.blackstoneproducts.com/product/36-griddle-carry-bag/

  3. Honey Albino says:

    My ignitor seems to be malfunctioning. Any ideas on how to fix or if someone can come and replace ignitor compartment?

    • Venessa Pixton says:

      The igniter requires a AA battery that is not included. If you have the battery in and it is still not working, most likely the needle is too close to the burner and is grounding itself. Try gently pushing the needle away from the burner a little more and that should solve it. The igniter will click if it is working correctly. If that does not fix it for you please call or email us for a new igniter. 435-252-3030 x 1 or support@blackstoneproducts.com

      Thank you.

    • Scott Stevenson
      Scott Stevenson says:

      Hi Ronnie,

      We don’t currently offer a conversion kit. Your local home improvement store should carry general BBQ a conversion kit that will most likely work. We just haven’t done enough testing to really recommend anything specific at this point. Thanks,

      Scott

  4. Gary Ruck says:

    I am looking to purchase a Griddle top for my new home which has a built in bar-b-que already
    on the patio (but no grill). How much room do I need around the grill on sides, bottom etc. to
    ensure it’s safe. The area is mostly covered with Granite, but there is a side that still has the
    “framing”. So is the granite needed on all sides? If not – how much space should I have (even
    away from the granite?)?

    • Venessa Pixton says:

      We do not currently test our products in outdoor kitchens. For ventilation purposes there needs to be at least 4 inches of space around the unit. We recommend that the griddle be 3 feet from anything combustible. If you would like to email us I could send you some pictures other customers have shared with me. support@blackstoneproducts.com – Thanks, Venessa P.

  5. Erik Olson says:

    I bought my Blackstone 36-inch about a month ago and I’m really enjoying it. I was wondering since this is cast steel and I have access to a steel shot Blaster is it recommended that I shot blast my cooking surface because it is removable and I would be able to bring it to my shop and blast it then re season it. Or is this something you don’t recommend?

    • Scott Stevenson
      Scott Stevenson says:

      Our griddle tops are cold rolled steel and should be fine under a shot blaster, however, we haven’t ever tested it ourselves so we can’t fully recommend it. Also, if the griddle is new, without any corrosion, then you shouldn’t need to do any of this before seasoning it. I can only see using a shot blaster if there is heavy corrosion on it (like in our griddle recovery video https://youtu.be/thPE2IgnSiI ). If you’ve just been cooking on it then you shouldn’t have to do anything else to it.

      If you’re going to do it though I would suggest starting on a small area maybe on the bottom or side just to test it. If you’d like to take pictures and send them to us we’d love to see how it turns out. Thanks!

    • Scott Stevenson
      Scott Stevenson says:

      You’re right, a cover should prevent most rust but some areas with really high humidity can still cause problems. The best defense against rust is a cover and a really good seasoning layer. The more you use your griddle the better the seasoning layer will get. Also, make sure to wipe the griddle top down with cooking oil after every use to protect it from air and water.

    • Venessa Pixton says:

      All covers are now waterproof, but will still always need to be tented away from the griddle top to prevent condensation. I have the original weather resistant cover that is outside 365 a year in rainy, snowy Utah. The water runs right off and with it tented, condensation is prevented and I have not had a problem with rust at all. Thanks for your thoughts!

        • Venessa Pixton says:

          Sure thing. Tent the cover away from the griddle top by simply putting something under the cover, such as a tupperware, or bowl to lift the cover off of the griddle top giving it some shape for the water to run off and provide air underneath the cover as well to avoid condensation from occurring.

          • Mike Kelly says:

            A friend of mine has had the 36″ griddle for about a year. it is cooked on several times every weekend. He uses 2 of the small propane, camp style, bottles to tent his cover and has not had any problem with his griddle top. He also fixed the oil drain problem by welding a 1/4″ black pipe coupling to the under side of the drain hole. I will we purchasing a 36″ griddle in the next few weeks.

          • Venessa Pixton says:

            That is awesome to hear. Thanks for sharing that with us. If you need anything, let us know! – Venessa

    • Venessa Pixton says:

      Our covers are waterproof. You still need to tent the cover where the griddle has no contour to provide a pocket of air to avoid condensation UNDER the cover.

    • Scott Stevenson
      Scott Stevenson says:

      Typically this can be remedied by tilting the griddle top towards the grease cup more but sometimes location and other factors won’t let you do it so we have a few suggestions you could try.You can try some shims underneath the left legs of the griddle (make sure your wheels are locked). You can also put 1 or two washers under the feet on the left side of the griddle top (pictured above). As a last resort you can also use some JB Weld and plug the hole at the end of the grease trough and create a little spout (also pictured above).

  6. Lin Smith says:

    I have been seeing wheels or casters on the regular grills. Mine is the tailgater. Would love at least 2 wheels to make it easier for 1 person to move it around the campsite. Any suggestions??

    • Venessa Pixton says:

      Thank you Lin for your inquiry. Unfortunately we do not have anything that would work. The tailgater is designed specifically to be used on any terrain, beach, parking lot, whatever. That is the main reason this particular unit does not have the wheels. We do have a carry bag set, one that nicely fits the base and another that fits the griddle and grill box together. It makes the portability more convenient but won’t solve the problem as far as moving it around the campsite. I am sorry that I could not be of more help!

    • Venessa Pixton says:

      Unfortunately we do not have any suggestions as we designed the tailgater unit to have the option to sit anywhere and be level. Beach, parking lot, etc. Adding wheels would take away from this. I would recommend talking with a fabricator for some specific suggestions. They are great with envisioning things like that. Good luck!

  7. Tony B says:

    Do you make a longer hose for the 28 inch griddle Im using it as a table top and I need a hose that’s at least two feet longer.

    • Venessa Pixton says:

      Thank you for your inquiry. Unfortunately we do not have anything like that. I believe you can find replacement regulators that would work from possibly a propane shop, hardware store or barbecue specialty store. Our regulators are .5 PSI. I would recommend taking your regulator off and take it in with you to make sure you get the correct thing. I hope this helps.

  8. Al Hinton says:

    I bought a Blackstone Dash Mdl #1610 portable grill. It is made for a small bottle.

    I have a large tank of Propane that I use in the winter for several heaters (I grow vegetables on my Sunroom in the winter).I also have had two grills yjay i have a hose that connects to the large tank -without a separate regulator. There is a regulator on the main tank.
    Do you have an adapter for this standard propane distribution hose?
    919 761 1104

    • Venessa Pixton says:

      Thank you for your inquiry. We do not currently have an adapter available but know that any standard one will work. Be sure and use our regulator so the gas will be properly regulated. We apologize for the inconvenience as we hope to have one we sell soon.

  9. Demetrius Rygiel says:

    The unit does come with a propane tank holder that easily keeps the tank off of the ground in a convenient location but I do understand what you are saying.

  10. Linda Davis says:

    I have left my grill covered for several months but the last person to use it did not clean it up properly. I did an initial scraping but layers of rust are coming up. Is this griddle top salvagable? Or should I try to replace just the top?

    • Sarah Retzlaff
      Sarah Retzlaff says:

      The griddle tops are made out of cold rolled steel, as such it is very hard to ruin them. I do believe that if you follow the steps you should be able to recover your top. If not you can always call Blackstone and order a new top.

    • Venessa Pixton says:

      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=thPE2IgnSiI

      Thank you for contacting us. It is definitely salvageable. Above is a link to a video where we cleaned up a fully rusted griddle top. If you follow the steps in the video you will have success. This method also protects the griddle from future rust. This griddle top in the video is the one we cook on daily for lunch. If you have any questions let us know!

  11. George Ryan says:

    I have a problem with my oil drip hole. The oil goes down the hole, but then runs back down the underside of the channel before dripping on my deck. Suggestions??

    • Sarah Retzlaff
      Sarah Retzlaff says:

      I have found the best solution is a paperclip folded into a capital ‘T’ shape. Have a top of the ‘T’ resting in the valley and the vertical part through the hole pointing to down towards the cup. The grease catches to the paper clip and follows it straight into the cup. This works great for me.

    • Scott Stevenson
      Scott Stevenson says:

      On current griddle tops we’ve added a bead weld under the drip hole to stop oil from running back up the underside of the channel.

      Bead Weld

      If yours has this bead weld and you’re still having this problem, try to increase the angle of your griddle top to lean to the right more. You can put shims under the feet of the griddle or use 1 or 2 washers under the left griddle feet (We’re currently working on adjustable height feet for next generation griddle tops).

      Washer

      If all of that doesn’t work we’ve also had customers use JB Weld and plug the drip hole and create a spout at the end.

      JB Weld

      • Bob says:

        I just got a 28 inch today , There is not drip hole BUT there is a bead weld close to the end. Do the new one have drip holes

        • Scott Stevenson
          Scott Stevenson says:

          You are correct there is no drip hole on the new ones. The drip hole was really for the factory to hang the griddle top while they media blast it and coat it with the protective layer of soy oil. Without the drip hole it actually allows the grease to flow a little further so it lands in the grease cup better without dripping on the ground. The hole was moved to the left side of the griddle.

    • Joseph Vasconcellos says:

      I found this to be somewhat of a problem on my Blackstone as well. My solution was to increase the size of the weld bead by using some steel muffler seal from Pep Boys. It’s heat resistant and did the job. I applied a dab three times and tried to form a bigger “weld” , letting each application cure for a day in between . After the final application cured (hardened) , the grease or oil drops directly into the catch pan. Couple of bucks and a little time. Be sure the original weld is is clean before you apply sealer.

    • Joe Mazzella says:

      Use a metal tent stake, placed thru the hole into Thebes’s catch pan. The oil will flow along the stake.

    • Scott Stevenson
      Scott Stevenson says:

      Lard will work fine too. Anything that you already use for your cast iron should be great. We’ve even tried the Larbee Puck which is a mixture of bee’s wax and leaf lard (made by the people that make Crisbee Puck). It worked fine but smelled a little odd.

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